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Zuytdorp Memories, January 2002 - A Days Paddle In
The Life Of A Sea Kayaker
After kayaking 600 kilometres from Perth, averaging
60kms a day we pulled in to Kalbarri after having
a great days paddle along a stunning cliff line. It
was in Kalbarri that we were to have a two day rest
to prepare for one of the longest, wildest nights
that we would ever encounter. The trip up the coast
had been full of excitement, but it was the next section
that we had all been longing for.
Our stop in Kalbarri was certainly buoyed by the
hospitality of Ken Wilson, a Scotsman who lived on
the hill near the river mouth over looking our route
along the cliffs. He had been host to Paul Caffyn,
who 20 years earlier had paddled into Kalbarri on
his around Australia paddle.
The two days was spent checking and readying gear
and food. Small jobs took time, nothing could be rushed,
as the final push to Steep Point was going to be very
testing, physically and mentally.
It wasn't pleasant rising at 4.00am, as we all felt
deprived of sleep, but we knew that it was important
to get on the move. We had a big day ahead of us.
Our goal was to paddle a 170 km stretch of coast,
lined by cliffs, and without landing. A little daunting,
but I just took it as another challenge. I didn't
know how the others were feeling and I didn't ask.
We dealt with our challenges in different ways, so
I just focussed on the job ahead.
It was still dark when we left Ken's home and walked
down to the beach to the sound of bagpipes. Ken used
to play the bagpipes, but now he has Hamish, a life
size dummy that stands next to his house and plays
a tune when a passing person triggers the sensor.
It's become another tourist attraction in Kalbarri.
By 5.45am, just as the first rays of light allowed
us to see, we were ready to leave. Cheered on by Marian,
Les and Ken, we moved out of the river mouth followed
by a fishing boat. Before us were kilometres and kilometres
of sand cliffs as far as the eye could see. We chatted
as we left but fell silent for a while, each of us
simmering over our own thoughts. I eventually broke
the silence and started singing. Tel and I had attempted
to sing all the songs that we knew on our journey
up. We were surprised how many 60s & 70s songs
we could remember, well the first few lines at least.
To our surprise John, who has been very quiet during
the trip, suddenly broke out with a rendition of the
6.00am time clock and a song, 'It's a beautiful day'.
We were silent again. Occasionally the silence was
broken with a triviality. It's amazing how many times
the wind and weather conditions can be discussed.
It seemed strange that we didn't have Les paddling
ahead, but the long hard days on the way up had injured
his wrist. Just before Kalbarri, Les had started to
suffer with a serious tendonitis problem in his right
wrist and he knew then, that only a long rest would
help its recovery. This was a mighty blow that none
of our team expected to happen. Les was the strongest
paddler in our team, and although Tel initiated the
trip, Les had been the driving force in getting the
expedition on the road. His organisational skills
and enthusiasm was uplifting to all the team, yet
he became the unfortunate one to have to sit out our
major objective. It was probably one of the most disappointing
moments of Les's life. One year of planning, one year
of focussing on a challenge only attempted once before
by the legendary Paul Caffyn 20 years ago, was now
in tatters.
Now, as Les tends to his creaking wrist, and joins
Marion as our support crew, the team of three, Tel
Williams, John Di Nucci and myself, launch ourselves
on a paddle that we will never forget. The challenge
of paddling the Zuytdorp Cliffs was now reality.
Four fishing boats were scattered across the ocean
ahead of us. They had already been working for several
hours. On land a group of fishermen with 4 wheel bikes,
stood casting their lines from the beach. Waves pounded
a rock ledge, then spilled up the beach. Behind the
fishermen stood a high sand ridge, which was to be
part of the coastline for the next 45 kms.
Large groups of goats roamed along the shore and
became a common sight. The beaches were littered with
their tracks. On a previous trip I had walked the
cliffs and at the time I'd noted the erosion damage
they're done to the area. Apparently the goats are
now being harvested and fetching $40.00 a head.
A number of flying fish suddenly became airborne
in front of us, shining like silver and seemingly
gliding forever. One leaped out near John, glided
in front of me and narrowly missed the back of Tel's
head. It was a spectacular show, one that we had seen
many times before, but it made us aware that a unique
brush with nature could easily turn out in disaster,
if we were hit by one in the night. I could just see
the headlines: Paddler slapped in the face and is
knocked out by a wet flying fish.
Our relationship with the sea was uplifting. There
was always something around us, whether it was a creature
in the sea or the beautiful scenery on land. It inspired
us to keep paddling. Today was no exception. As we
paddled with the rhythm of the swell, I heard a familiar
splash behind me. I instantly thought it was a shark
following as I'd had similar experiences before, whilst
paddling the Kimberley coast. I turned to see a dark
shape at my stern. I shouted to John to check behind
me. He stopped paddling to let me catch up, and shouted
back that there were two sharks following. As soon
as I had passed him the sharks disappeared, at least
for the time being.
On the journey up, while having lunch on the beach
at Port Gregory, a fisherman struggled with a pretty
hefty shark. Within 30 minutes of hooking it, just
about the entire population of Port Gregory was looking
on. Apparently a shark had been taking off with fishermen's
tackle all week. Some two hours later the shark was
hauled into the shallows, gaffed and pulled up on
to the beach with the locals rejoicing. It was a tiger
shark about three metres long.
Also on the paddle up, Tel and Les had been practising
what they called the Zuytdorp break. They would jump
out of their boats and relax in the water for a short
time and then jump back in. The idea was to stretch,
and give themselves a new lease of life whilst paddling
the long journey along the Zuytdorp cliffs. The idea
had merit in certain situations and weather conditions,
but with the presence of sharks and with the rough
conditions that developed after midday, these plans
were put on hold.
Every hour we stopped for a few moments, had a drink,
a bite to eat and a very short rest. Tel and John
would take the opportunity to have a jimmy-riddle.
They had to go just about every hour. Did they have
a bladder problem or what? They took off their spray
cover, strategically positioned a container to catch
the fluid and then emptied it overboard, rinsed the
container, breathed a sigh of relief and placed the
cover back on. The task became a little more difficult
as the sea deteriorated, but they still had to do
it.
It was important to keep our fluid and food intake
up. John and I only drank water, but Tel liked gatorade
and Les enjoyed cordial. To keep me going through
the night I cooked up my favourite marathon food -
rice pudding. I find it an excellent food to keep
my energy levels up. It tastes good, digests well
and is a carbohydrate, a good food source to keep
my body working overtime. Between the portions of
rice pudding, I ate my usual; nuts, raisins, dried
fruit, and breakfast bars. For a special treat I took
along two Snickers bars, I had one for breakfast,
and gave the other to Tel, who at the time needed
an energy boost.
A check of my GME Etrex GPS indicated that we were
travelling at 7kms an hour. It was a good speed if
we could keep it up. I was quite impressed with how
rapid the GPS located the satellites and was ready
to go. It was important to get a reading quickly,
so I didn't have to sit floundering in rough conditions.
With the featureless coastline the GPS was ideal for
indicating the distance we had travelled.
By 1.30pm we reached the first part of the continuous
cliff line. By this time the wind was howling and
waves were crashing into the cliffs. Around the 60
km mark I took another GPS reading to establish the
position of the Zuytdorp wreck site. We didn't want
to miss it. The wreck sits underwater close to the
cliffs. I had thoughts of peering at it through my
divers mask, but unlike the previous day the sea was
too rough. Unfortunately when we located the site
all we could do was to take a few photos and be happy
with just being there. I had visited the wreck site
on a previous walk, so I was able to recognised it.
The Zuytdorp ship was bound for Batavia (Jakarta),
sailing from Holland. The 45 metre, 40-gun Dutch merchant
ship sailed into the 60 metre cliff in 1712 with 250
passengers and crew and a cargo of 248,000 guilders
in newly minted coins. The wreck was found in 1927
and first explored by divers in 1964.
At 3.00pm we left the wreck site, turned north-west
again following the cliffs as far as the eye could
see. Then about ten kilometres further along the coast
the vertical cliffs eased and were replaced by an
extraordinary rock/sand cliff line that furnished
an array of shallow caves weathered and eroded by
the wind and rain. There was a beach beneath them,
although it looked impossible to land, due to the
rocky reef. It was a fascinating part of the coast.
Stalactites and crazy sandstone patterns and sculptures
with magical appearances formed inside the caves.
It was a unique area to explore and a mystical part
of the coast. I looked on with great curiosity. I
wondered what it would be like standing closer and
peering into these huge archways and shallow caves.
My imagination ran wild as the weathered cliff line
succumbed to the varying rock sculptures and cave
in's. Several deep gullies intersected the cliffs
forming beautiful hideaways and routes up onto the
cliff tops. Vegetation was also lusher here.
The vertical cliff faces returned. It had been a
beautiful and interesting section where the intriguing
formations allowed my imagination to wander. We were
pitting our skills against the elements, but I found
it so relaxing and rewarding to be able to study an
incredible cliff line, that so few people have seen.
At 6.30pm it was time to make a radio schedule with
Les. I delayed doing it for half an hour in the hope
the sea would calm. It didn't. It was too rough to
chance taking the satellite phone out of my day hatch
without support, so I got Tel to come alongside to
steady me. When I got through, I told Les that despite
it being rough, we were going well, and had paddled
82 kms, which was nearly halfway.
At this point we took the opportunity to attach cylume
light sticks, strobe lights and torches to our heads.
This proved to be a difficult task in the rough conditions.
As we moved off again the sun was setting on the horizon,
but we gave it little attention. Normally we would
have been oohing and aahing and saying how beautiful
it was, how lucky we are, and isn't it great to be
out here in the wild. Tonight we were really in the
wild but somehow the sunset wasn't our main focus.
We were now halfway, so the closest safe heaven was
85 kms away. The cliffs prevented us from landing
before then. Within two hours we would be passing
Womerangee Hill (287m), and the highest point of the
cliff line (260m), but unfortunately by then it would
be dark and we would only be able to see the cliff
outline in the moonlight.
By 8.00pm, and 14 hours into our paddle, Tel, who
had had trouble keeping awake all afternoon was getting
worse. He hadn't slept the previous night. His strategy
was to raft up with John and have a quick nap, in
the hope that he could revive himself. A few minutes
later he would be off again. Unfortunately the naps
had little effect so stops became a regular occurrence
throughout the night. I drifted close by keeping an
eye on their lights and the longer that Tel rested
the colder we all became. It was always a relief when
we started paddling again.
Tel led the way, while John and I paddled each side
of him watching every movement that he made. We had
kept a tight formation all day, but it was now even
tighter. It was extremely important not to become
separated.
Every time a large following wave would pick me up
I would spear my boat over to the left to ensure that
I didn't collide with Tel. He mostly surfed them straight,
as he was at the mercy of the wave and too sleepy
to fight them. Concentration for all of us was at
the max.
Lights from two fishing boats several kilometres
apart, got closer. They were anchored up for the night
and although their lights were on, I saw no life on
board. I wondered if Tel would be tempted to divert
towards them, but we passed them by. The way ahead
was now completely dark. The cliffs loomed over to
our right. We estimated the swell being about three
metres and the wind being around 30 knots. The conditions
were certainly testing our skills.
About 10.00pm Tel suddenly came out of his trance
and declared that he was over his sleeplessness. "Lets
go" he said, "I feel great".
For the next hour we paddled with gusto. Life had
returned to the old dog. We again flew up the coastline
surfing some waves and being crashed upon by others.
It was great, we were having the time of our life,
scooting down waves and feeling a sense of achievement
as we headed towards the moon. Then Tel suddenly fell
back into a hole, this time a bigger one, and he was
forced to take longer cat naps.
Meanwhile the sea seemed to deteriorate further with
rogue waves breaking heavily and increasing our vulnerability.
The strain of peering into the darkness, being prepared
for a wave to dump on us, and having to concentrate
heavily on our own and each others paddling was quite
an effort. We were hoping that the sea would calm
by midnight. It had done so virtually every night
since the start of our journey. We waited with baited
breath, but it never eased.
At one of our stops I paddled over to John and Tel
who were rafted up. They sea was noisy as it had been
since midday. I could hear waves crashing off the
peaks of large swells from afar. Being surrounded
by them, we all knew it was only a short time before
the next one crashed over us. It was a little like
playing Russian roulette. The wave may miss two of
us, but crash onto the other, only metres away. I
said a few words to the guys and started to move off.
Then out of the darkness came a huge white breaking
wave crashing down on me. As it smothered me I instinctively
leant into the wave, braced with my paddle for dear
life and relied on my balance to ride it out. Having
little reference as to where I was, I could do little
but allow the wave to push me sideways to where-ever
it dissipated. It bounced me further than any other
wave had taken me that day. It was like being swept
away by a beach break. When it rolled on by I was
wet, cold but very lucky. I used my instincts and
skills to survive that wave, but there seemed no end
to them. The night was far from over. With the drama
continually soaring, so did the excitement and my
confidence. I still felt in control and if I could
keep awake I knew that I could get through the night.
We moved on again. Tel put another cylume glow stick
on his head, so we could see him more clearly from
the back. John and I continued to shadow Tel's every
move, by keeping in a very tight formation. We were
at the most vulnerable time of the night, but John
and I work well. I could see him regularly checking
my whereabouts, as I did of him. It felt great working
as a close knit team intent on succeeding in our quest
to get through a difficult night. I have paddled and
worked with John in whitewater many times before,
but this was the first time that we have been on sea
kayak expedition together. But that didn't matter,
I knew from the onset that he could always be relied
on.
John is a wiry character, he is even smaller than
me. But his size doesn't reflect his strength and
determination. In the rapids I have found few people
that can be more relied upon to rescue someone in
trouble. When a paddler is in a difficult or dangerous
situation John will do everything to help the paddler
in distress. Somehow he is able to place his small-framed
body in the thick of it. He is not afraid to leave
his craft to get to the accident scene, and can lift
heavy boats to free paddlers from danger. Tonight
John had a different role - to help a very close and
tired friend to get through the night.
Tel took off again towards the setting moon and in
a more westerly direction. He seemed to be in a trance
and the moon was drawing him in. I shouted at him
to stay a little to the right of it, so we didn't
detour too far out to sea and paddle extra kilometres.
Although I knew that we couldn't land and the cliffs
were extremely dangerous, it was comforting to know
that they were close by.
I had some idea of what Tel was going through, having
experienced sleep deprivation on other expeditions.
It's an agonising and frustrating feeling and no matter
how hard you try to keep awake it's virtually impossible
to succeed.
On some of my trips when tiredness has overcome me
I have purposely encouraged myself to grab a few moments
sleep. It's like putting yourself in a trance. On
the river or on a calm ocean it's not dangerous to
nod off, but the conditions that Tel was experiencing
were much more dramatic. Surprisingly when you are
in this trance, your body's reflexes somehow react
and warn you that you are about to capsize. When this
happens, you find yourself doing an automatic support
stroke. It's quite bizarre, but I have never capsized
whilst in this state.
Tel was certainly experiences an extreme case, and
it is hard to believe that although Tel had virtually
no control of his paddling and surfing, he didn't
capsize. He always seemed to drop his paddle across
his deck and support himself at the crucial time.
Tel has done many exciting things in his life especially
in his younger days in South Africa. He'd told us
about many of his experiences as we'd paddled up the
coast line. But today all he could say was, "this
is the worst experience of his life". Even the
South African army days, which, he said, were pretty
tough and atrocious, had nothing on this experience.
In the meantime our ground crew, Les, Marian, Carolyn
and Gary, who were camped at False Entrance, found
it difficult to sleep. Apart from their tents being
battered all through the night by the strong winds,
they were really worried about us. Les knew only too
well how uncomfortable the conditions were out on
the water. It was a tense night for everyone.
By 1.45am the moon, which was lost behind the clouds
for long periods of time, was getting lower in the
sky. Tel shouted to us that he could no longer go
on. "I've had it", he said. He rafted up
with John and I moved carefully across to them to
work out what to do. At this stage I think we all
agreed that we were in a tricky situation, but we
were in no serious danger. All we had to do was raft
up and wait for daylight.
We had at least another 10 hours left of our journey.
Our situation could worsen but I was pretty confident
we could ride it out. I was feeling pretty fresh and
alert despite what we were going through. John also
seemed to be coping well, although I didn't really
know his true state of mind.
I floated alone for a while, watching the moon steadily
fall behind a small mountain range of clouds. The
light dimmed. Apart from our little dilemma, it was
a beautiful sight. One to remember. How many people
would have experienced such a spectacle?
Our situation seemed less serious when we were moving
despite being at the mercy of the wind and waves.
Unfortunately it was difficult to generate body heat
and it was harder to stay awake and focussed.
My body soon started to cool and I needed to put
on my polartec jacket for warmth, but the conditions
prevented me from trying. Eventually I paddled across
to John and Tel to join the raft and increase my stability.
The task proved difficult. Trying to dress with the
boats rising and falling proved to be too much for
my stomach. I started to feel nauseous, so I immediately
pulled away from the raft dry retching, but luckily
my stomach soon settled and I was able to conjure
up another plan to get my jacket on. Before leaving
for the trip I had fixed an outrigger system on my
kayak, so in times like these I could attach two small
pontoons, one each side of the boat, to give me more
stability. I quickly attached the pontoons and I was
able to take my PFD off and put my warm jacket on,
without feeling threatened of capsizing. I was extremely
pleased with the system but even happier to be warm.
The extra stability from the pontoons helped me to
keep afloat. I worried less about falling asleep and
rolling over, however I couldn't become too complacent
as the breaking waves continuously threatened.
I sat quite comfortably in my boat, thinking and
watching the moon fall gracefully behind a mass of
clouds. I was quite content and relaxed despite the
elements running hostile. Just as I was feeling on
top of the world, the moon slid below the horizon,
plummeting us into total darkness. Even the faint
outline of the tall cliffs was now gone and we had
entered the second phase of night.
Feeling threatened by the thought of drifting into
the cliffs, John and Tel started paddling out to sea
while still rafted together and stopped when they
thought it was safe. I constantly monitored their
lights and every so often I would go over and talk
to them. For the second time, when next to their rising
and falling boats, I felt nauseous. This time I vomited
a little, but I soon felt good again. It was a relief
not to become sea sick. I have only experienced sea
sickness four times in twenty-four years of sea kayaking,
but it was very debilitating.
Time passed slowly and again and again I was swept
away by large waves. I could also see John and Tel
being dumped upon. It became difficult and draining
sitting in the boat at the mercy of the sea. I had
thoughts of rafting up with the guys, but I thought
it could create more difficulties in these conditions,
as the three boats side by side would continue to
bump into each other.
I floated by myself until 4.25am, but the strain
of having to be alert and awake was starting to tell.
It was time to join the others. Once rafted it was
like being in heaven. However, the boats continually
crashed together, which soon became a concern, as
permanent damage could occur.
But at that point I wasn't too concerned, I was happy
to be able to hold on to another boat, and rest my
eyes, even if was for a very short time. My taste
of heaven was brief though, as a big wave came through
and dragged us apart. We clawed our boats back together
and hung on, waiting and hoping that the next one
would be less powerful.
Periodically through my relaxed state, I would hear
John enquire whether the cliffs were close. Robotically,
I would force myself to look up fleetingly, see nothing,
say no and rest my eyes again. In reality it was too
dark to see any thing anyway, so we'll never know
how close we really were.
Our boats continued to bang together as we were lifted
and dropped by every wave. Relief finally arrived
when daylight approached and Tel tried to paddle again.
At that point I instantly came alive.
I peeled away from the raft first. Tel followed and
within seconds I heard John shout. I looked behind
to find him capsized 20 metres away and out of his
boat. There was no time to be lost, so I paddled backwards
quickly to John's boat. When I arrived John was on
the up wind side of his boat trying desperately to
swim towards it. He was only 2 - 3 metres away, yet
despite his desperate attempt to catch it, the wind
drifted us apart. I will never forget the anguish
on John's face as he held on to his paddle with one
hand and swam with the other. I had three choices;
I could let his boat go and paddle around to him and
then tow him back to his boat, or I could tow his
boat to him, or I could just lean across his boat
and perform a solid draw stroke to stop the boats
from drifting. I chose the draw stroke option because
it was the quickest, safest and most efficient way
to get to him. As soon as my draw stroke took effect,
John came closer and when he was within a paddle length,
I held it out and pulled him in. In less than a minute
of arriving next to John's kayak, he was safely back
inside.
As John bailed out the water he said, "I owe
you one". It was a funny thing to hear from John,
who over his paddling career has saved many paddlers
from danger. We were a team, and helping each other
was part of being there. John had helped Tel to get
through the night and I had helped John. To me the
incident wasn't a big deal, we had the skills and
experience to nip it in the bud.
John had been leaning across Tel's boat for 3 hours
and as soon as the raft broke up, his balance was
effected and over he went. As soon as he turned the
kayak over, he lost his grip on the boat and it blew
away from him. He couldn't have picked a more dramatic
place for it to happen.
The cliffs 300 - 400 metres away were glowing with
a hazy redness. They were tall, steep and cleaned
edged like a slab of butter. They were a magnificent
sight that we were unable to appreciate at that particular
time.
The morning brought relief. We knew now that our
goal was in sight. It was a case of taking care and
to slowly keeping moving towards our goal, preferably
in the upright position. At this point I felt the
challenge was over. For Tel though, it was still very
demanding. We made a satellite call to our support
crew and they were relieved that we had survived the
night, but very worried when I mentioned Tel's difficulties.
When I checked my GPS we were surprised that we only
had 30 kilometres left to paddle. We must have drifted
over 10 kilometres in the night, which was a bonus.
In reality the 30 kilometres to safety should have
taken 4 hours 20 mins but it took 6 hours 30 mins.
Tel was still very tired in more ways than one and
he tried whatever methods he could muster to keep
awake. He splashed his face, chewed on his hat, sang,
talked to himself, talked to us and nibbled on a carrot.
None of these were really effective, although talking
to us did seem to help the most. The problem was,
we had nearly exhausted the content of our conversations
over the last two weeks and chit-chat was becoming
more difficult.
When False Entrance came in sight, and although it
was still over 10kms away, we felt as if we were home.
Tel struggled on, with John leading us to the entrance.
I paddled beside and behind Tel, talking and trying
to ensure he was safe. But he continued to be angry
and frustrated with himself as he nodded off and couldn't
do a thing about it.
Specs on the cliffs drew closer. Fishermen cast their
lines and our crew waved and took photos, although
they were hard to spot. We too were only specs in
the ocean.
Throughout our ordeal, the team was very close. From
the very start that morning we were as one. If someone
fell back for any reason, we all stopped. On the hour
we stopped for a few moments to drink, to eat or have
a pee. We had established a boundary and every one
kept within it. We respected each others talents and
formed a bond. But John and Tel, who had been close
friends for several years, were now going to have
a bond that would be even stronger than before.
As we paddled into False Entrance (Dulverton Bay)
against the howling wind, I felt proud of what we
had achieved, but I felt prouder of how we had worked
together as a team. We were all safe and Tel could
now sleep forever and reflect on his ordeal. We had
learnt more about ourselves, about our friends and
about sea kayaking since starting our journey from
Perth.
With a southerly wind blowing, the surf at Dulverton
Bay was pretty flat. Normally, when there is a westerly
or north-westerly wind, there is a huge surf in the
bay. We had been concerned about landing here and
had thoughts that we might have to continue further
to Steep Point, but that worry was no longer necessary.
A reef protected the beach but we were able to paddle
across it. As we moved over the reef our support team
stopped taking photos and waded in the water in a
desperate attempt to help us out of our boats. Marian's
camera, which was on a tripod fell over, she then
waded in the water and stubbled up to her waist in
her nice dry clothes. I was wondering what all the
fuss was about. We had always landed without help.
Unbeknown to us, they had been very concerned about
our condition, especially Tel's, so they were ensuring
we had help.
To my surprise I wasn't even sore. I felt better
now than I did on the first hour of the journey and
I knew that I could paddle on well beyond nightfall.
I had no chaffing marks and no blisters and I was
full of confidence knowing that I could do something
even bigger.
As for Tel, he was in big need of a sleep. John,
well he didn't look too fresh at the time of our landing
and he did say later, that he had needed the next
day to rest to feel 100% again.
Strong wind continued for the rest of Friday and
increased further to over 30 knots the following day
(Saturday), so we had no alternative but to take the
day off and rest, play beach golf and write our diaries.
Just when we thought the blustery weather had set
in, it calmed enough on Sunday to allow us to start
paddling again and finish what we came here to do
- paddle on to Steep Point. We left camp at Dulverton
with a south-easterly wind blowing. Having to paddle
34 kilometres of cliff line seemed an easy task compared
with what we had been through. We were very relaxed
and were able to appreciate the scenery, which was
some of the best you'll see in Australia. The swells
had dropped, but the rebound from the cliffs was quite
savage, compared with the easier swell and wind conditions.
Tel and I continued to sing, but not with the same
enthusiasm as before. Our thoughts were elsewhere.
When we saw the Steep Point cliffs it felt as if the
dream was complete. Nothing short of an unprecedented
incident would now stop us from finishing.
Coloured balloons used by fishermen at the point
were bobbing on and out of the water. Although we
wanted to paddle close to the cliff, the fishing lines
were a hazard we didn't want to tackle. This was one
of Australia's premier fishing sites. Big fish are
caught here and I expect that big sharks were roaming
under the water, so it was a big incentive not to
capsize. John waved to the fishermen, but we saw no
response, probably too engrossed in catching something
big.
Meanwhile as we enjoyed drifting into South Passage
of Shark Bay, Marian and Les were having a terrible
time. When they tried starting the car the battery
was flat, so was the spare. Then to make things worse
the immobiliser wouldn't allow the car to be started
with jump leads, so Les had to cut the leads to take
the immobiliser out, and then join them together again
so as to by pass it. To make things even more frustrating
the track into Steep Point was pretty rough and they
had trouble climbing two or three of the sand ridges.
So by the time we met them on a beach about three
kilometres from Steep Point they were not in a mood
for celebrating.
We quickly unloaded our boats, tied them on the trailer
and tried desperately to fit all the gear into the
vehicle. Within 40 minutes we were driving out on
the rough track, and secretly praying for everything
to go right on the way home. It was Marian's four
wheel drive, so we felt guilty about it being knocked
around. On the way home, the car was stopped twice
and the battery failed. We then had to jump lead it.
Celebrations that day were put on hold. We focussed
on getting home.

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